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INTRODUCTION
The
rules of etiquette relating to formal clothing have been developed over
many years of differing styles of fashion and modes of dress. The
guidelines that follow will help you to interpret the various terms that
may appear on your invitation or ticket.
But
first, some interesting background info…
In
Victorian times, a gentleman when dining out or visiting the theatre in
the presence of ladies would always wear formal attire consisting of
black evening tail coat, black top hat and white gloves (as described
later as “white tie”). Only when relaxing at his “club” might he
relax sufficiently to allow himself to wear a smoking jacket.
All
this changed on 10th October 1886 at the Autumn Ball of the Tuxedo Park
Club in New York when the assembled leading lights of New York society
were stunned by the entrance of a certain Mr Griswold Lorillard who was
sporting a rather unusual SHORT
jacket with satin lapels…What! No tails?
American
society being what it was he was not thrown out, but actually won so
many admirers during this first experiment that the jacket was adopted
by a number of other Tuxedo Park members for formal occasions. Hence the
“tuxedo” was born, designed by Mr Lorillard with the English smoking
jacket in mind.
It
was also America that gave us the white dinner jacket, made popular in
the 1930’s by Humphrey Bogart in the film “Casablanca”.
(With
thanks to Mr Stanley Barten of Hire News)
BLACK
TIE
When
‘black
tie’
appears on an invitation it is an indication that
the guest is expected to wear formal evening dress. This usually
consists of a dinner jacket, with matching trousers, most often in
black. The dinner jacket will have satin lapels and trimmings to make it
distinct from a lounge jacket, which is for daytime use. The trousers should have a black satin braid down the length of
the outer leg seam.
The
dinner suit should be worn with a white dress shirt. The choice of
collar style, either wing or standard collar, is optional and down to
personal choice. A black bow tie would be worn with matching cummerbund.
An alternative to the cummerbund is a waistcoat. With a double-breasted jacket, neither is necessary.
Ideally, plain black patent or fine leather shoes should be worn.
For
summer events, cruises
etc,
a white Tuxedo style dinner jacket can be worn in place of the
black dinner jacket.
Although
the term ‘black tie’ is often used to indicate the required mode of
dress, the use of a black
tie is nowadays not always strictly necessary. For less
formal ‘black tie’ events,
such as parties and
celebrations, it is usually acceptable to be more adventurous with your
choice of accessories. Colourful waistcoats, bow ties and cummerbunds
are a popular way of adding a touch of spice and originality to the
conventional dinner suit. However, if you will be attending a more
formal event
it is advisable to play safe and stick with
black.
WHITE
TIE
The
most glamorous and romantic evening wear of all, ‘white tie and
tails’ is not only worn to the most glamorous and romantic evening
parties, but also to the
most formal of evening occasions such as state
banquets.
The white tie outfit consists of a black evening tailcoat, black
dress trousers with a double braid down the outer seam, and a
stiff-fronted shirt fastened with mother of pearl or gold studs and
cufflinks. The bow tie and waistcoat are both white pique (otherwise known
as Marcella) to match the shirt front and shoes are as for black tie.
Those who want to look the full part would don a black top hat, a
pair of white gloves and even a black cloak and a black cane.
MORNING
DRESS
Otherwise
known as top hat and tails, morning wear is worn by male members of a wedding
party e.g. Groom, Fathers of the Bride and Groom, Best Man and
Ushers. Morning wear is also worn at other formal social events such as Royal
Ascot, Royal garden parties,
Trooping
of the Colour, Investitures
and other Royal
or Court events. It may also be worn at society
Funerals
and Memorial services.
The
traditional Morning Suit consists of a black or grey tailcoat worn with
striped (for the black) or matching plain (for the grey) trousers. A
waistcoat or vest (back-less waistcoat) should be worn over a plain
white shirt. In most cases either a tie or a cravat is acceptable,
although a cravat is best worn with a wing collar on the shirt. A black
or grey top hat should accessorise the suit, together with a pair of
lightweight grey gloves.
For
weddings,
where the individual bride and groom can determine just how conventional
their dress code should be, alternative colours can be selected for the
morning suit and accessories depending on current availability and
fashion trends. A more colourful and expressive waistcoat is a very
popular way of complementing the conventional morning suit and a wide
selection is always available from your local branch of DAPPER
Designer Dresswear or through this
website.
TYING
A BOW TIE
Put
the bow tie around your neck and slip one end through the other, fold
the right end in half at the middle of the bulge and hold it in place.
Bring the other half over the top of the folded half and fold it
mid-bulge too. Tuck it through behind the other half of the tie. Tighten by alternately pulling both folded and single
ends…clear as mud? Have a look at the step-by-step diagrams (printing
them out might help).
LOUNGE
WEAR
A
lounge suit is worn at less formal occasions such as business meetings,
interviews etc, where more formal dress is not necessary. It often
consists of a black, grey or navy jacket with matching trousers. A white
shirt and a tie are also worn to complement the suit.
ROYAL,
DIPLOMATIC AND FORMAL OCCASIONS
Depending
on the setting, the dress code changes for these occasions. At garden
parties, you would wear a morning (see MORNING WEAR) or
lounge suit (see LOUNGE WEAR), unless you have a service uniform or
national dress.
At
functions such as a state
banquet and the state opening of parliament, dress is
very formal.
You must wear white tie, or national dress.
Decorations are worn.
These occasions are chances to wear your best and most prized
possessions.
ROYAL
ASCOT
Royal
Ascot is the most prestige
event of the racing calendar, and although the public is able to
purchase tickets for the royal enclosure, it is a very formal occasion
at which no exceptions are made regarding dress. Anyone who
arrives improperly dressed is simply not admitted. You should wear
traditional morning wear (see MORNING WEAR) and although service dress
is acceptable, it is rarely worn.
THE
RIGHT SIZE
The
sleeves of any jacket should reach the base of the hand when the arms
are straight by the side. The collar should fit closely round the
back of the neck with about half an inch of shirt collar showing above
the jacket. Shirt cuffs should show a little below the jacket
sleeves. Jackets such as the dinner jacket and lounge jacket, should be
long enough to cover the seat of the trousers, and should hang evenly
all round.
The
bottom of the trouser leg rests on the front of the shoe and should be
slightly longer at the back.
THESE
ARE GUIDELINES ONLY AND MAY BE ADJUSTED FOR PERSONAL PREFERENCE
CLICK
HERE FOR DETAILED SIZING AND
MEASUREMENT HINTS
IF
NO DRESS CODE IS SPECIFIED ON THE INVITATION OR TICKET, THEN IT IS
ADVISABLE TO CHECK WITH THE ORGANISERS BEFORE ATTENDING
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